A few weeks ago, Mark treated me to a trip to California as part of my birthday celebration.
The first half of the trip was in Santa Barbara, where we took part in the My Favorite Murder’s My Favorite Weekend event. I’ll share more about that part of the trip later, because it definitely deserves a post all its own.
For now, I want to tell you about the second half of the trip, where we drove down the coastal highway of California in our rented Jeep, with the top off, looking effortlessly cool, like a couple of West Coast locals.
We drove all the way from Santa Barbara down to Long Beach in what would have been about a two-hour trip if we hadn’t stopped, but we did it in SEVEN HOURS because we hit up all the touristy places along the way: brunch in downtown Santa Barbara, a walk on the beach at Mussel Shoals, a cruise down Ventura Blvd, a quick wave at Pepperdine University, an ice cream on the Santa Monica Pier, and got caught in gridlock at Venice Beach.
Then we rolled into Long Beach, where parked it for two nights aboard The RMS Queen Mary.
Let me lay some personal & historical groundwork for you:
The year was 1949 and the setting was Southampton, England. My dad had his chubby little hand squished into the palm of his mother’s as they boarded the Royal Mail Ship, The Queen Elizabeth, for their emigration to the United States*.
I can’t imagine what it must have felt like as that enormous ship - the newest and largest ocean liner of its time - approached the Statue of Liberty five days later, not to mention the promises it represented for her and for millions like her.
Exploring the halls of that ship and walking along the same corridors that my dad and grandmother walked all those decades ago would be the dream of a lifetime, except that could never - and will never - happen.
Because the RMS Queen Elizabeth no longer exists.
In the late 60’s, the ship was sold to a businessman in Hong Kong, who planned to convert it to a floating university, but it was set on fire during its renovation and was later scrapped right there in the water, and my heart and soul went down right with it, even though I didn’t even know about its existence, yet.
The sister ship to the RMS Queen Elizabeth was the RMS Queen Mary.
Both ships were being built at the same time during the 1930’s, and then served what I would say were their most important years during WWII, and then put back into service as mail couriers and civilian cruise liners in 1946.
While the RMS Queen Elizabeth was being used as kindling for Chinese fishies, the RMS Queen Mary was bought by the City of Long Beach, California, to be converted into a floating hotel and museum, which is how it’s used today.
I AM OBSESSED with this ship because it’s the closest thing I’ll ever have to getting a good “feel” for what it was like for my dad and grandmother those five days they crossed the Atlantic Ocean in 1949 to start their new life.
But the ship is kinda like an ugly baby with a face only a mother could love: not everybody is going to be looking at it with heart-eyes, and I’ll tell you why below.
Portrait of Queen Elizabeth hangs in the grand staircase over the hideous vinyl that was GLUED over the original wooden walls by monsters.
The original tapestry painted and hung in the grand ballroom in the 1930’s. It survived the ship being used as a war troop-ship and back again without so much as a scratch.
Replica of the original “cabin class” (2nd class) stateroom
Imagine this very deck with throngs of vacationers and then War Brides heading to the United States after WWII to join their American soldier husbands.
View of the grand staircase and one of the ship’s original elevators. Notice the handrails that were installed for passengers to hold during rough seas.
The original Tourist Bureau office, where guests would meet with an agent to plan and book future sailings.
Our fancy dinner at Sir Winston’s, overlooking Queensway Bay.
Here’s My Honest Review Of The RMS Queen Mary Hotel & Museum
The outside of the ship has been maintained beautifully, with her bold black and white hull still shiny and crisp, topped with the bright red and black funnels that she’s famous for.
Walking inside, though, is a different story.
The carpets are in disrepair, held together in several places throughout common areas and on the main stairs with silver duct tape.
Chairs in the dining rooms were not only old, but dirty and stained.
It’s hard to imagine this ship as being the same one I’ve read about, with magnificent chandeliers, breathtaking grand staircases, and general splendor worthy of wealthy world travelers like Gretta Garbo, Bob Hope, and Clark Gable.
Although it would be two more years before the Queen Mary’s maiden voyage, it was 85 years ago from this writing in 2019 that she was given her naming rights, and she’s now on the National Register of Historic Places.
So it’s an old ship. I get that.
And I understand that because of its historical marker status, any renovations and updates are strictly limited, although these limits sadly weren’t put into place early enough to keep the ship from losing many of its artifacts just after its purchase in the 60’s.
Listen: there’s a difference between “maintaining what’s left of its historical integrity,” and just plain letting things go.
There are supposedly plans for renovations that will include mostly structural safety repairs, but I don’t see anything being said about some basic cosmetic improvements, and that is just heartbreaking.
I’m talking: reupholstering dining chairs, and repairing carpets - things that wouldn’t impact its historical integrity, but would be more closely aligned with the grandeur that the ship was once known for.
Still, if you look around and take a moment to soak in your surroundings, you can almost see the decks filled with busy vacationers playing shuffleboard in the sea breeze, or having a cocktail in the Observation Bar at sunset.
Hotel & Museum Details
To board the ship, guests take an elevator up a few floors, then cross the gangway to enter the main doors, embarking just like cruise guests would have done back in her heyday.
When the ship was bought in the 1960’s, the gorgeous wooden walls of the common areas were covered in beige vinyl to “lighten things up,” and I can’t think of a more sacrilegious, barbaric act.
The vinyl was glued on, because those in charge were monsters, and it can’t be removed without damaging the wood underneath.
Another change was to change the original rubberized flooring to carpeting.
The hotel rooms still have much of their original fittings and furnishings, with the exception of updated beds, and you can easily envision what it must have felt like to travel across the Atlantic as a cruise guest back in the 40’s and 50’s.
The Queen Mary Hotel is operated by Urban Commons and has 347 rooms over three floors.
Dining
• Sir Winston’s is the ship’s fine dining option, and it’s where we had dinner one night of our stay. It was fantastic. There are seaside views from every seat in the restaurant, and the food and service were incredible.
We had Lobster Bisque, which was tasty, but not as creamy as I would have liked.
For the main entree, I had the Steelhead Salmon and Mark had the Colorado Rack of Lamb, both of which we would highly recommend.
• Chelsea Chowder House & Bar is a more casual dining option, but the food and service are no less incredible. We each had the Beer Battered Ono Sandwich with House Cut Steak Fries and oh. em. gee. SO GOOD.
I also recommend their Scallywag, and Old Fashioned made with real maple syrup and a brulee orange slice.
• They have another cafe on board, as well as a Starbucks, and a bar that serves drinks and appetizers.
Exhibits & tours
There are several exhibits throughout the ship that you will want to visit. Our favorites were The Cunard Story and the Ship Model Gallery.
We took the Glory Days tour, which gave us a deep-dive into the ship’s history, from the early days of her construction, to her transformation to a troop ship during WWII, then back to civilian service in the late 1940’s. This tour was a really interesting one, and took us to the grand ballroom, where original paintings installed in the ship still hang on its walls.
We also went on the Hauntings tour, which took us all through the ship, including the otherwise unaccessible boiler room and the Mauritania Ballroom, both sites of substantial paranormal activity.
How Much Does It Cost
We stayed in a Deluxe Stateroom for only $119 per night. I mean. Just outside of Los Angeles. This was about half the cost of all other hotels in the vicinity.
Now, I will tell you that you need to have realistic (low) expectations because their “deluxe” is way different than my “deluxe.” I should note here, though, that I’m super picky about hotels.
Is It Worth It?
The hotel price is a steal.
The tour prices are fair, as well, at just $10 each per tour. If you are staying at the hotel, DO NOT BOOK YOUR TOURS ONLINE because the website makes it look like you have to buy a “Passport,” which is $30-$40, depending on whether it’s a weekday or weekend.
Who Would Most Enjoy The Hotel?
Kids who are a little bit older - like maybe seven or eight, on up would enjoy the novelty of staying on board a ship, as well as anyone looking to stay in a unique hotel.
History buffs, particularly those interested in WWII, because of the role the RMS Queen Mary played in that war.
Pros
Novelty - unique hotel
Price - you can’t beat $119/night in the L.A. area
Tours - lots of tour options, all at great prices
Dining - several options in a wide range of prices
Location - about a 45-minute drive (without traffic) to the touristy-parts of Los Angeles, like Beverly Hills, Rodeo Drive, the Walk of Fame, and UCLA.
Cons
Location - it’s not easy to get to because of the spaghetti bowl of highway interchanges nearby, as you enter the port
Deluxe-ness - meh. Calling any of the accommodations “deluxe” is a stretch, but, again, I am SUPER picky about hotels.
FAQ’s
Is The Queen Mary Bigger Than The Titanic?
Yes. The Queen Mary is 1019 feet long and 81,000 tons, whereas The Titanic was 883 feet long and 46,000 tons.
Does The Queen Mary Still Sail?
No. She left her home port of Southampton, England - the same port my dad and Nana left from* - for her very last journey ever on October 31, 1967. She’s been moored in the port of Long Beach, CA ever since.
Where Is The Queen Mary Ship Located?
In Long Beach, California, in the Port of Long Beach on Queensway Bay.
Is The Queen Mary Haunted?
The ship is said to be the most haunted hotel in America and among the top 10 most haunted places on earth, with paranormal activity and sightings being reported by guests, maids, and ship visitors since 1966.
You can take a haunted tour or participate in one of these after-dark activities. We took the haunted tour and it was interesting, but not spooky. I enjoyed it because we were able to visit some of the areas of the ship that are otherwise off limits, like the boiler room.
Or you can stay in the most haunted room aboard the ship, room B340, which is the sight of one of the ship’s most prolific paranormal activity, second only to the First Class Pool.
Conclusion
If you find yourself in the Los Angeles area, I recommend a stay on The Queen Mary. It’s not just a rich historical experience, it’s sure to be a fun, memorable stay for you and your kids.
Cunard Today
Cunard has produced new versions of these ships - The Queen Mary 2 and The Queen Elizabeth, as well as two others, The Queen Victoria and a not-yet-named vessel, to be launched in 2022.
Sailing on the gorgeous, opulent new Queen Elizabeth is on my bucket list as a researcher and writer, and to serve as a nod to my dad and the journey that would change the trajectory of his life and the life of his mother*.
*PS - Did you know I’m writing a book about this? You can find out more about it right here.
